OB gives less output and power handling but sounds very erm.open and natural as there is no cabinet to "colour" the emergence of the waves. Simplest of all is OB (open baffle) this is basically a panel on which the speakers are mounted, it acts as a basic divide between the waves from the front and back of the speakers. There is much info here and elsewhere on small line arrays, open baffles and horn loading You could of course build a much more complicated cabinet such as a transmission line or rear horn(very large for bass) but it would probably cost more than the value of the drivers. Small diameter ports tend to be very noisy. A large diameter port must be made longer to tune it down. (above Fs/resonant frequency))I would try building a box similar dimensions to the original but with only one driver at the front and one port(nothing inside the box) If the port is too big it will sound boomy and the very low notes will move the speaker more than desirable, if it is too small, there will be less weight and output you may also hear air turbulance as the port is active on the low end. You could use a front loaded horn to increase output and sensitivity also.Ī reflex box will generally be about twice as large as a sealed unit but has the advantage of low distortion, increasing the bass output increasing power handling and reducing cone movement. If it were my project, I would build two cabinets with a simple reflex(ported) low end on the 6" with a simple OB(open baffle) panel for the smaller speakers. It all depends on the type of sound you are after. The original box is probably about the same size as needed for one driver in its normal alignment.(Isobaric loading halves normal required volume for a given driver) This method with bandpass is often employed in compact systems to produce greater perceivable low end. This makes for a small box and some removal of error effects within the drivers but requires more power. The 6" "bass" was most likely aligned previously in an isobaric configuration, internally face to face(clamshell). The small "full range" speakers have most likely very low sensitivity and poor bass and power handling. Without T/S figures its very hard to build suitable enclosures without some trial and error. Hi, isnt it frustrating when no one replies to a perfectly valid question. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions if someone says do a 6th order bandpass with isobaric speaker setup for the sub, or get out the soldering iron and make some crossovers then count me in! with all the above in mind what kind of enclosure design would be the way to go for all this (so a design for a subwoofer, a centre speaker, front speakers, and rear speakers)? i'm not afraid of hard work and i am pretty technically minded.and in truth if it all goes wrong i'm not too worried. I don't currently have an amp to drive them. There is no requirement for enclosure size it can be as big as it needs to be, floor-standing or bookshelf. the room they will most likely end up in is pretty small so volume is not important.īuild material will probably be mdf for cost reasons. but being new to this subject the wealth of different enclosure designs is a little overwhelming. My thoughts were to create a 5.1 surround sound set using these speakers. so i will have to do this myself once i have the kit. i have no idea on Thiele-Small parameters as emailing csw was less than helpful. any suggestions on how to pop it back out?) and 1x 3in speaker which was the centre speaker for one set ( see attached image ). So i have 2x 6in subs, 10x 2 1/2in speakers (1 of these has a dented cone. while these are nothing particularly special i thought they would be a good way for me to get into designing enclosures etc. I have the remains of two sets of creative surround sound speakers (all the speakers are made by cambridge soundworks). I am looking to get stuck into my first speaker project (it's been on the todo list for so long!)
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